Pre-Purchase Inspection and Used Car Checklist (Printable)

Download the checklist

Printable PDF: one letter-size page with check boxes for every section below, plus lines for the VIN, mileage, asking price, and notes. Print one for each car you look at, so you can compare them later.
Spreadsheet (CSV): the same items in rows, with columns for the result and notes. Open it in Excel, Numbers, or Google Sheets.

Bring a flashlight, a paper towel, a quarter for the tread, and a friend if you can. Consumer Reports suggests looking in daylight on a dry day, because rain and bright lights hide body flaws, and asking the seller not to drive the car for about an hour before you arrive, so you can check it cold.

Before you go: papers, title, and recalls

VIN. Get the 17-character VIN from the seller. It should match on the dashboard, the driver’s door jamb, the title, and the registration.
Open recalls. Enter the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls (free). Consumer Reports recommends not buying a car with an open recall until it’s fixed; recall repairs are free at a dealer for that brand.
Title. The seller should have the actual title, in their name. Check it for words like salvage, flood, rebuilt, or lemon buyback, and for a lien. An NMVTIS title report shows title brands, total loss, and the last odometer reading.
Service records. Ask for receipts and the maintenance log. How to fill the gaps: how to check a car’s service history.
At a dealer: the Buyers Guide. The FTC requires dealers to post a Buyers Guide on every used car. It says whether the car comes with a warranty or is sold “As Is - No Dealer Warranty.” Keep a copy.

Outside the car

Body panels and roof: dents, scratches, rust, and paint that doesn’t match from panel to panel
Gaps between panels that are uneven, and paint on rubber seals: signs of repair after a crash
Doors, hood, and trunk: open and close each one; seals not torn
Glass: cracks (small chips are something to negotiate on)
Lights: every bulb works and no lens is cracked or fogged
Suspension: push down hard on each corner; the car should bounce back once and settle

Tires and wheels

All four tires the same brand, model, and size
Tread depth: at least 2/32 inch, the usual legal minimum; use a quarter to see if the tires will need replacing soon (how long tires last)
Even wear across the tread; wear on one edge can mean an alignment problem
Sidewalls: no cuts, cracks, or bulges
Tire age from the DOT date code (tire age calculator)
Spare tire or repair kit, jack, and lug wrench are there

Consumer Reports adds that a car with fewer than about 20,000 miles should usually still have its original tires.

Under the hood

Look with the engine cold.

Engine oil: not gritty. Gray, foamy oil or water droplets on the dipstick are serious warning signs.
Coolant, brake fluid, and power steering fluid between the marks on their reservoirs
Transmission fluid, if there is a dipstick: the color and level the manual describes (often pinkish red)
Belts and hoses: firm, not cracked, frayed, or soft
Battery: no corrosion on the terminals; a date label older than about 4 to 5 years means a new one is coming (Consumer Reports)
Leaks, fresh oil spray, or a very clean engine on an otherwise dirty car

Inside the car

Smell: a musty smell can mean water leaks or flood damage; a sharp smell can mean smoking
Warning lights: they should light up briefly when you turn the key, then go out once the engine runs (what dashboard lights mean)
Seats, belts, windows, locks, mirrors, and the sunroof all work
Heat and air conditioning blow hot and cold
Radio, Bluetooth, and phone connection work
Pedal rubber and the steering wheel: heavy wear doesn’t match low miles
Headliner, carpets, and the spare tire well: stains, dampness, rust, or silt

Under the car

Puddles or stains where the car was parked
Black, greasy soot in the tailpipe (can mean burning oil)
Torn rubber boots at the axle ends (CV joint boots), with grease thrown around
Bent or kinked metal, new welds, or fresh undercoating that can hide crash repairs or rust

The test drive

Drive long enough for the engine to warm up fully, on local streets and on the highway, if the seller agrees.

Starts easily from cold, with no warning lights left on
Smooth shifts, no slipping, flaring, or hard clunks
Brakes: straight stops, no grinding, squealing, or pulsing pedal
Steering: no pull to one side on a straight road, no clunks over bumps
No vibration at highway speed
No smoke, burning smell, or new warning light after the drive

Some private sellers won’t allow a test drive. That is a reason to be more careful, or to walk away.

The pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic

Your own checklist catches the obvious problems. A mechanic can put the car on a lift, read stored trouble codes, and check the brakes, suspension, and frame properly.

Cost: about $100 to $150 for a thorough check, according to Consumer Reports. Confirm the price before the appointment.
Who: an independent shop you choose, not one the seller picks. The FTC advises an independent inspection even for a dealer-certified car.
What you get: ask for a written report that lists problems and repair estimates. Consumer Reports and the FTC both say you can use it to negotiate the price.
If the seller says no: Consumer Reports suggests you may want to walk away.

A vehicle history report doesn’t replace this step. The FTC says such a report typically won’t list mechanical problems.

After you buy

Write down the date and odometer reading on day one in a car maintenance log.
Do any overdue basics: oil and filter, and the fluids and filters your owner’s manual lists for this mileage.
Set the next due dates and miles from the manual, not from the last owner’s stickers.
Keep the inspection report and the bill of sale with your records.

FAQ

How much does a pre-purchase inspection cost?

About $100 to $150 at an independent shop, according to Consumer Reports. Prices vary by region and vehicle, so confirm before the appointment and ask for a written report.

What should I check when buying a used car?

The VIN, title, and open recalls first. Then the body, tires, under the hood, the interior, and underneath, followed by a test drive. Finish with an inspection by an independent mechanic.

Should I buy a used car with an open recall?

Consumer Reports recommends not buying a car with an open recall until it is fixed. Recall repairs are free at a dealer for that brand. Check the VIN at nhtsa.gov/recalls.

Is a vehicle history report enough?

No. The FTC says it is not a substitute for an independent inspection and typically won’t list mechanical problems. Unreported accidents and repairs won’t appear either.

What does “as is” mean on a used car?

On a dealer’s Buyers Guide, “As Is - No Dealer Warranty” means the dealer won’t pay for problems or repairs after the sale, according to the FTC. State rules on implied warranties vary. This is not legal advice; check with your state attorney general’s consumer office.

Sources

Consumer Reports, Consumer Reports’ used car checklist to avoid costly repairs (checklist items, $100–$150 inspection; updated March 20, 2026; checked November 12, 2026): consumerreports.org
Consumer Reports, How to protect yourself when buying a used car (title, open recalls, walking away; updated July 26, 2021; checked November 12, 2026): consumerreports.org
Federal Trade Commission, Buying a used car from a dealer (Buyers Guide, “as is,” independent inspection; last updated April 2024; checked November 12, 2026): consumer.ftc.gov
NHTSA, Recalls look-up by VIN (checked November 12, 2026): nhtsa.gov
U.S. Department of Justice, NMVTIS, Understanding an NMVTIS vehicle history report (checked November 12, 2026): vehiclehistory.bja.ojp.gov